Month: October 2015

Month: October 2015

NUEVO LATINO SHRIMP AND GRITS WITH BOURBON RED-EYE GRAVY

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This recipe is provided by multi James Beard Award nominee and Food Network’s Extreme Chef Anthony Lamas and James Beard Award nominee food and travel writer Gwen Pratesi from their newest cookbook SOUTHERN HEAT.  Learn more about Chef Anthony Lamas on his Chef’s Roll profile.

It would be hard to have a restaurant in Kentucky and not pay homage in some way to one of the South’s most quintessential dishes, Shrimp and Grits. I start with local Weisenberger grits (see Resources on p. 277) that have been seasoned with grated Manchego cheese and roasted poblano peppers and top it with my take on Red-Eye Gravy, which is made with Kentucky bourbon.
This signature dish was the one I prepared on Beat Bobby Flay that aired on Food Network. One of the judges said my poblano pepper garnish made the dish too hot, so, I didn’t win. But look for the rematch. I’m coming for you, Bobby! While poblanos aren’t typically hot, many peppers can be unpredictable (for more on this, see p. 12).
Very popular in the South, red-eye gravy is made by cooking slices of country ham in water to release the flavors from the fat and then adding a few other ingredients, like coffee, butter, or even beef broth. It’s the drippings from this incredibly flavorful country ham that give the gravy its unique flavor and mouth-feel.
I use local Kentucky freshwater prawns or shrimp from Georgia or the Gulf Coast for this dish. The shrimp are marinated to give them great flavor and then sautéed quickly, so they’re not overcooked. Alternatively, you can grill them for a perfect sear and char, as shown in the photo on p. 158. While the shrimp may appear to be the star of the show, it’s the different layers of flavor when taken together in one bite that will have your taste buds tingling. →

SERVES 4 TO 5
FOR THE SHRIMP

1 pound extra-large (16/20) Georgia or
Gulf Coast shrimp, peeled and deveined
Juice of 1⁄2 lemon
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon ground achiote
1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons Chipotle in Adobo
Purée (p. 114)

FOR THE BOURBON RED-EYE GRAVY

9 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
11⁄2 ounces country ham with
some fat, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
1⁄4 onion, cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
1⁄4 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1⁄4 cup brewed coffee, at room temperature
1⁄2 cup Woodford Reserve (or your
favorite Kentucky bourbon)
1⁄4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon kosher salt (this will depend on the saltiness of your country ham)
Juice and peeled zest of 1 lemon
1⁄4 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon cornstarch slurry (p. 118),
as needed
Roasted Poblano and Manchego Weisenberger Grits (p. 160), for serving
Chopped fresh curly parsley, micro celery or micro greens, for garnish

MAKE THE SHRIMP

Put the shrimp in a medium nonreactive bowl. In a small bowl, mix the lemon juice, oil, garlic, oregano, achiote, salt, and chipotle purée. Stir well to combine then pour over the shrimp. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally to
distribute the marinade.

MAKE THE BOURBON RED-EYE GRAVY

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter and then add the diced country ham. Cook until it renders some fat and just begins to brown, 2 to 3 minutes, reducing the heat if necessary. Add the onion, garlic, and thyme and sweat the onion and garlic until aromatic, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the coffee to deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits. Take the pan off the heat, pour in the bourbon, and light it to burn off the alcohol. Return the pan to the heat and then add the peppercorns, salt, lemon juice, lemon zest, and heavy cream. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook until slightly reduced, just a few minutes. Thicken with a
little of the cornstarch slurry (1⁄2 teaspoon to start); whisking to combine well. The sauce should be the consistency of buttermilk.
Reduce the heat to low and add the remaining 8 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking well after each addition. Remove the pan from the heat once the butter is fully incorporated. Taste and adjust seasonings. Keep the sauce warm over a double boiler until ready to serve.

COOK THE SHRIMP

Remove the shrimp from the marinade (discard the marinade). Add a little olive oil to a
large skillet and heat over medium until the oil is hot but not smoking. Add the shrimp in batches if necessary to avoid crowding the pan, and cook just until they turn pink,
2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove immediately and keep the shrimp warm until
ready to plate.

TO SERVE

Strain the gravy through a fine-mesh sieve or chinois. In individual shallow serving bowls, evenly divide the Roasted Poblano and Manchego Weisenberger Grits. Top
with some of the strained Bourbon Red-Eye Gravy, followed by 4 or 5 cooked shrimp. Garnish each bowl with the chopped parsley, celery leaves, or micro celery.
CHEF’S TIP › Shrimp and grits can be a challenge to pair with wine or spirits since there’s a lot of different flavors and heat going on. However, I like to support our regional artisans, and the wines of Virginia are some of the finest in the world. Try a Viognier from Barboursville Vineyards, where our friend Luca Paschina is producing some of the best wines around.

RIVER OYSTERS (OSTIONES)


This recipe is provided by multi James Beard Award nominee and Food Network’s Extreme Chef Anthony Lamas and James Beard Award nominee food and travel writer Gwen Pratesi from their newest cookbook SOUTHERN HEAT.  Learn more about Chef Anthony Lamas on his Chef’s Roll profile.

I love oysters and will eat them no matter how they’re prepared. Some of my favorite oysters come from Rappahannock Oyster Co., located on the coastal waters of Virginia (for more on Rappahannock Oyster Co., see pp. 124–125). The company cultivates several varieties of oysters with a different taste and brininess in each. I prefer their signature Rappahannock River Oysters for this dish because of their sweet, buttery, full-bodied flavor.
Rappahannock River Oysters are medium size and have deep shells, making them ideal for this preparation. However, you can substitute other deep-shell briny oysters, such as Blue Point, Malpeques, or Wellfleets. Use cold-water oysters, which are firmer and meatier than warm-water oysters.
My Latin and Southern spin on the classic Oysters Rockefeller uses smoky Benton’s bacon, Manchego cheese, and roasted poblano peppers. Make the topping mixture a day ahead. Several hours before serving, prepare and top the oysters. You can then refrigerate them until you’re ready to bake and serve.

MAKES 1 DOZEN

1 ounce smoky bacon (like Benton’s),
finely chopped
1⁄4 small Spanish onion, cut into
1⁄4-inch dice (1⁄2 cup)
3⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
1⁄4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1⁄2 ounce Pernod
1 cup heavy cream
11⁄2 to 2 teaspoons cornstarch slurry,
(p. 118), as needed
21⁄2 ounces grated Manchego cheese, plus more for garnish
2 ounces grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (or use all Manchego)
1 roasted poblano, trimmed, peeled, seeds and membranes removed, and chopped
(p. 97)
2 ounces fresh spinach, roughly chopped
1 dozen medium-size, deep-shell, briny oysters, scrubbed clean (I like Rappahannock River Oysters)
Sea salt and water, for cleaning the oysters
Ice cream salt, as a base for baking
Fine breadcrumbs, for topping
Lemon wedges, for serving

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, sauté the bacon for about 2 minutes, until it renders some fat, then add the diced onion. Continue cooking over medium heat
until the bacon is lightly browned but not overcooked and the onion is softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with the salt and white pepper. Off the heat, add the Pernod and light to cook off the alcohol. Add the cream and return the skillet to the heat. Bring the mixture to a low boil, add the cornstarch slurry, and cook until the mixture thickens, stirring constantly, about 30 seconds. Add more slurry, if necessary, so that the mixture is the consistency of a heavy cream sauce. Stir in the grated cheeses and roasted poblano; mix thoroughly. Transfer the cream mixture to a medium bowl, add the spinach, and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and preferably overnight. The mixture will thicken and appear semi-solid.
Several hours before serving, clean and scrub the oysters. To do this, remove the oysters and connective muscle from the shells (see the tip on p. 42). Reserve the oysters and discard the muscle. Wash the shells in salted water, using a mixture of 1 part sea salt to 8 parts water (this replicates ocean salinity). Drain. Rinse the shells to remove any sand or grit.
Lay out the oyster shells on a baking sheet with sides that’s covered with a thick layer of ice cream salt. Mound enough salt to keep the shells from tipping over. Put one oyster in each shell and top with 11⁄2 tablespoons of the cream mixture, covering the oyster completely. Refrigerate for about 1 hour. ’
When ready to bake, heat a convection oven to 400°F and top each oyster with a sprinkle of breadcrumbs, pressing the crumbs into the cold mixture so that the breadcrumbs are secure. Make sure the oysters are level on their salt bed, then bake for
11 to 12 minutes, or until the oysters are golden brown, bubbly, and heated through.
Top each oyster with a pinch of grated Manchego and serve immediately with
lemon wedges.
CHEF’S TIP › To clean an oyster, wrap one hand with a towel and hold the oyster. Starting at the narrow tip of the hinged end, pry open the shell with an oyster knife. Slide the knife under the oyster and against the shell to remove the oyster and cut the muscle (discard the muscle). Reserve the oyster and dip the shell into salted
water to remove the grit.

POSOLE VERDE

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This recipe is provided by multi James Beard Award nominee and Food Network’s Extreme Chef Anthony Lamas and James Beard Award nominee food and travel writer Gwen Pratesi from their newest cookbook SOUTHERN HEAT.  Learn more about Chef Anthony Lamas on his Chef’s Roll profile.

This recipe is provided by multi James Beard Award nominee and Food Network’s Extreme Chef Anthony Lamas and James Beard Award nominee food and travel writer Gwen Pratesi from their newest cookbook SOUTHERN HEAT.  Learn more about Chef Anthony Lamas on his Chef’s Roll profile.

To this day, Posole is one of my favorite dishes and one of my strongest food memories. My Mama would simmer the broth for hours, and the incredible aroma would permeate the house throughout the day. I can still smell that pot of Posole cooking. Having to be patient until the next day to enjoy the dish was nearly impossible, but always worth the wait. I couldn’t sleep at nights with the smell of the herbs and spices simmering in the kitchen and thinking about the wonderful flavors of her Posole. She would tell me to go drink a glass of milk to ease the hunger pangs, just as I do today with my boys in the middle of the night, but nothing would do until I could eat Mama’s Posole.
My version of Posole was dubbed “Latin hangover food” after I served it at Lambstock (an annual industry event for chefs and others in the culinary world) in Patrick Springs, Virginia. The dish was also mentioned in a New York Times article, and I talked about it on NPR’s All Things Considered program. As with most soups and stews, it’s even better after the flavors have spent the night together and had a chance to mingle. It also freezes well.
You might be more familiar with red Posole, or Posole Rojo, another version made with dried peppers. You can use the Salsa Rojo (p. 242) as a base for making red Posole. Serve Posole topped with thinly sliced cabbage, chopped fresh onion, chopped fresh cilantro, lime wedges, a little dried Mexican oregano, and warm corn tortillas. Be sure to get a little of each accompaniment in every bite—that’s where the magic is. You’ll get a little heat, crunch, and brightness from the citrus and tomatillos—it’s truly an explosion of flavors in your mouth. Even if you don’t have a hangover, it’ll cure whatever else might be ailing you.
SERVES 8 TO 10

4 large poblanos (1 pound), trimmed,
seeds and membranes removed, divided
1 pound tomatillos, peeled, divided
3 ounces garlic cloves
(approximately 24 cloves)
2 quarts organic or homemade
chicken stock, divided
2 pounds Boston butt or pork shoulder
2 to 3 tablespoons kosher salt,
plus more for seasoning the meat
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, cut into 1⁄2-inch dice
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
Posole Spice Mix (p. 242)
1 large bunch fresh cilantro, ends trimmed and tied together as a bouquet garnish
3 bay leaves
Juice of 4 limes
1 tablespoon House Seasoning Blend (p. 248)
One 25-ounce can hominy, drained (I prefer
Juanita’s Foods®)
One 14.5-ounce can peeled whole
tomatoes, drained and pulsed in a blender
or crushed with your hands

FOR SERVING

Thinly sliced red and white cabbage, chopped onion, chopped fresh cilantro, dried Mexican oregano, lime wedges, and corn tortillas (warmed and folded)

Roughly chop half of the poblanos and half of the tomatillos, then add to a high-speed blender (I use my Vitamix) with the garlic and 1 quart of the chicken stock. Pulse until the mixture is loose. Set aside. →
Chop the remaining poblanos and tomatillos into medium (1⁄2-inch) dice; set aside.
Let the pork come to room temperature, then pat dry with paper towels. Cut the pork into 21⁄2- to 3-inch pieces. Season the meat with salt and black pepper.
Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking.
Add the pork pieces and sauté until brown, turning frequently, 5 to 7 minutes. Add
the onion and sweat for 2 to 3 minutes, until it is almost translucent, scraping up
any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the reserved chopped poblanos and tomatillos and cook for another 2 minutes. Stir in the Posole Spice Mix and let cook
for a few seconds until aromatic.
Pour in the remaining 1 quart chicken stock and the puréed poblano mixture. Bring to a boil and then add the cilantro, bay leaves, lime juice, 2 tablespoons salt, and the House Seasoning Blend. Stir well and add the hominy and tomatoes. Lower the heat and simmer for 11⁄2 to 2 hours, until the pork is tender, skimming any foam from the top of the Posole as it cooks. Remove and discard the cilantro and bay leaves. Taste for seasonings and add the additional 1 tablespoon salt as needed.

If serving immediately, skim any fat from the surface of the Posole and ladle into individual bowls. Or refrigerate overnight, then remove the fat from the surface and warm just before serving. Place the garnishes in small bowls and serve at the table so guests can top their own Posole.

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CHEF’S TIP › The flavors of this dish are light and savory with a little spice, so serve a soft Pinot Gris from France or a wine from the Rueda region of Spain, which produces crisp white wines.

CHEF’S TIP › Using enameled cookware is one of the healthiest ways to cook. While there are a number of manufacturers, Le Creuset® cookware has been some of the most prized and best loved cooking pieces by chefs and home cooks for decades. It is coveted for its ability to heat up quickly and maintain an even cooking temperature. The pieces are able to go from stovetop to oven, allowing cooks to achieve a beautiful sear on meats and poultry before being transferred to the oven and cooked on low heat for many hours. I recommend adding a few pieces to your home kitchen, in particular a Dutch oven and a braiser. They are versatile and can be used to prepare anything from soups, stews, and sauces to cooking a whole chicken in a pot.

KENTUCKY HEIRLOOM TOMATO GAZPACHO

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This recipe is provided by multi James Beard Award nominee and Food Network’s Extreme Chef Anthony Lamas and James Beard Award nominee food and travel writer Gwen Pratesi from their newest cookbook SOUTHERN HEAT.  Learn more about Chef Anthony Lamas on his Chef’s Roll profile.

This soup is best made with local and beautifully ripe heirloom tomatoes. Farmer Brooke Eckmann at Ambrosia Farm in Finchville, Kentucky (read more about Brooke on pp. 182–183), grows over 82 varieties of heirloom tomatoes that taste just like the ones I grew up with as a boy. Her tomatoes are grown with a genuine love of the land, and each variety is unique in its heritage and flavor profile. These tomatoes are the kind you want to source for making this gazpacho. Look for vine-ripened heirloom tomatoes at your local farmers’ market or specialty grocery retailer throughout the summer. I like to use a mix of varieties each time I make this soup. If your tomatoes are overly ripe or too juicy, reserve some of the extra juices when you seed the tomatoes and add it, if needed, at the end. Let your taste buds be your guide as you season the soup.
A simple garnish for the gazpacho is a few thinly sliced radishes, halved heirloom cherry tomatoes, micro arugula, or fresh celery leaves (any or all). Served in a chilled glass bowl, the presentation of this seasonal soup is especially attractive. If you want to make it extra special, add grilled fresh local shrimp to the garnish or combine lump crabmeat with watercress and micro celery.

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS . SERVES 8 TO 10

6 large ripe heirloom tomatoes,
cored and seeded, bruised spots
and blemishes removed, roughly chopped (51⁄2 to 6 pounds before trimming)
1 red bell pepper, trimmed, seeds and membranes removed, and roughly chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, trimmed, seeds and membranes removed, and roughly chopped
1 poblano pepper, trimmed, seeds and membranes removed, and roughly chopped
4 cucumbers, peeled, halved, and seeds removed, sliced thick
1⁄8 Spanish onion, chopped (1⁄4 cup)
2 cloves garlic, chopped

3 medium jalapeños, trimmed, seeds and
membranes removed, and sliced
Juice of 2 limes
Juice of 2 lemons, plus the finely
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 small bunch cilantro, stems trimmed
1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup red-wine vinegar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon ground white pepper

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Thinly sliced radishes, halved heirloom cherry tomatoes, micro arugula, and small celery leaves, for garnish. Combine all of the ingredients except the garnishes in a large nonreactive pot and use an immersion blender to purée to a thick soup-like consistency, leaving some small pieces for color and texture, if desired. (Alternatively, purée the ingredients in a blender; this will have to be done in two or more batches.) If the tomatoes are not very juicy, you may need to add a little bit of water. Do this sparingly so you don’t dilute the flavors. Taste and adjust seasonings and then transfer to a plastic or glass container, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
To serve, portion into individual serving bowls and garnish with sliced radishes, halved cherry tomatoes, micro arugula, or small celery leaves or any combination of these.

NASHVILLE-STYLE HABANERO HOT CHICKEN

hhThis recipe is provided by multi James Beard Award nominee and Food Network’s Extreme Chef Anthony Lamas and James Beard Award nominee food and travel writer Gwen Pratesi from their newest cookbook SOUTHERN HEAT.  Learn more about Chef Anthony Lamas on his Chef’s Roll profile.

Nashville is known for country music, a full-size reproduction of the Greek Parthenon, the Tomato Art Festival, and hot chicken. Gwen, Roger, and I went to a famous hot chicken shack in Nashville for lunch after a late night of celebrating that included just a little bit of bourbon. Spicy food was just the thing we needed. While I can eat hot foods, this stuff was just too hot and we found that it really didn’t have any flavor, just heat. With that in mind, I was determined to create a hot chicken that was really moist, with just the right amount of heat and a complexity of flavor throughout.
Each bite is more than just hot—it is packed with flavor. The brine creates the moistness, with seasonings that penetrate the meat. The crispy skin is achieved by double dipping in flour with spices and using a buttermilk base. Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce adds another layer of flavor and complexity of heat with a little sweetness. Papa is a member of my culinary team at Seviche and more like family after working with me in the industry for over
15 years. We developed this recipe for hot sauce several years ago and it has been one of our “secret sauces” in several dishes. When you’re not sure what the spice is, it just might be Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce.
While the chicken is best prepared after 24 hours in the brine, you can leave it for as long as 48 hours for an even hotter version, and you can brush on more of Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce before baking to achieve a “burn your shorts off” version. For details on how to achieve different levels of heat and spice, see the tip on p. 143.

SERVES 3 TO 4

One 31⁄2- to 4-pound whole chicken,
cut into 8 pieces

FOR THE BRINE

2 quarts water
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar
3⁄4 cup kosher salt
4 habaneros, cut in half, with seeds
1⁄4 cup Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce (p. 143)

FOR THE COATING

3 cups all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons smoked
Spanish paprika (pimentón)
1 tablespoon ground habanero
11⁄2 teaspoons ground cayenne
1 tablespoon Homemade Sazón (p. 248)
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground sage
1 teaspoon ground oregano
1 teaspoon celery salt

FOR THE BUTTERMILK DREDGE

1 quart low-fat buttermilk
1 tablespoon habanero powder
11⁄2 teaspoons ground cayenne

Canola oil
Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce (p. 143)
White bread and sliced homemade or
store-bought sour pickles, for garnish

MAKE THE BRINE

Combine all of the ingredients in a nonreactive pot and bring to a boil, stirring to
dissolve the sugar and salt. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until cold, 4 to 6 hours. Once the brine is cold (the chicken and brine should be the same temperature), add the chicken pieces, cover, and
refrigerate for 24 hours.

PREPARE THE CHICKEN

Position a rack in the center of a convection oven and heat the oven to 350°F. In a
medium bowl, mix together the flour and spices for the coating, then transfer the mixture to a large plastic zip-top bag for dredging. In a shallow glass dish, combine the buttermilk with the spices for the dredge and whisk to blend well.
When ready to cook the chicken, remove it from the brine and pat dry with paper
towels. Put a couple of pieces at a time in the bag with the coating mixture and shake to coat well. Remove the chicken, shaking off excess, and set aside on a plate while you coat the remaining chicken pieces.
Add the chicken, one piece at a time, to the buttermilk mixture. Coat well and then return it to the plastic bag with the flour. Coat well, shake off the excess, and set aside on a wire rack. Continue until all chicken pieces are dredged.
Place a clean ovenproof wire rack on a baking sheet and set aside. In a large cast iron skillet or large Dutch oven, add enough canola oil to come about 11⁄2 inches up the side (just to cover the chicken pieces) and heat to 325°F on a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Place the chicken, skin side down, in the pan, frying in batches to avoid crowding the pan, until golden brown, turning once, for a total of 5 minutes. Adjust the heat as needed to keep the temperature at a constant 325°F. →
Transfer the chicken to the clean rack. If desired, use a pastry brush to mop each piece of chicken with Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce (see the tip below for how much to add based on your desired heat level), lightly covering the crispy skin on top. Place the chicken in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature in a breast reaches 165°F.
Serve the chicken with slices of white bread and garnish with pickles. For a little more kick for any heat level, serve with Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce on the side.

PAPA’S FAMOUS HOT SAUCE

MAKES 11⁄2 TO 13⁄4 CUPS

3 whole habaneros (11⁄2 ounces)
1⁄2 cup organic or homemade vegetable stock
1⁄2 onion, roughly chopped (1 cup)
41⁄2 tablespoons tomato paste
1⁄2 cup white vinegar
1⁄2 cup canola oil
1⁄2 teaspoon onion powder
1⁄4 teaspoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon light
brown sugar
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon minced garlic

Place the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir well and reduce the heat, but keep the mixture at a rolling simmer for 30 minutes (or longer), until it’s thick and syrupy, stirring often. Do not put your face near the pot and use good ventilation. The habaneros should be very soft. Cool the mixture and then purée in a high-speed blender. Transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate. The sauce will hold for several weeks.

CHEF’S TIP ›    Make the dish as hot as you want by following these guidelines:

Medium: Brine the chicken for 24 hours and do not brush Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce on the chicken before baking. › Hot: Brine the chicken for 36 hours and use Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce for light dipping or mop on after finishing in the oven (don’t brush the sauce on the chicken prior to baking). › Burn-your-shorts-off hot: Brine the chicken for 48 hours and brush Papa’s Famous Hot Sauce over the chicken prior to baking. Serve with white bread and mayonnaise or a mayonnaise-based side dish (like
Mama’s Potato Salad on p. 216), as the fat will reduce the burn from the hot chicken.